September 26, 2012

Runway Report: Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2013

I have been remiss in discussing the Ready-to-Wear fashion shows that have been going on in New York, London, Milan, and Paris the last few weeks. I have been remiss because I have been bored. What few shows I've seen have seemed uninspired, repetitive, and overdone. Though there were beautiful fabrics and colors, none seemed to stand out particularly (or, as the Fug Girls said: "Orange seems ready to have a major moment, which is strange, because we thought it was already having one.").

But then there was Dolce & Gabbana. Yes, bustier-dress-is-my-super-star Dolce & Gabbana knocked it out of the park with a simply incredible collection that, though I am gleefully wearing leggings and a sweatshirt for the first time this year, have me aching for summertime. Preferably somewhere on the Mediterranean.

It started with Garance Dore's charming proclamation "Have I ever told you about my love for cactuses?" accompanying this photo:

Have you ever seen a more perfect green/gold olive? Or a more elegantly cut tee? Or more fabulous hat?

Then Scott Schuman showed me this (and the photo at the top of the post):

That's a basket, dress. Sure, it's sheer and odd and goodness, who would wear it. But look at the silhouette! When have you last seen a cut as elegant as that? 1956, perhaps?

Then Miss Moss did a mashup of D&G runway looks with vintage travel posters:

And finally, I clicked over to the Vogue feed to see the entire runway. Guys, it is stunning. The use of prints, the use of color, the cuts, the lengths, the texture, the details, the accessories. The materials: soft silk, light cottons, shiny black burlap, elegant brocades, beading, knits, rattan. The prints are cut just perfectly: in one skirt the pleats are right on the stripes, in another the sleeves are where the fabric breaks pattern into a rush of red. It's all so fantastic.

Myrna and I spent our lunch break yesterday looking through each slide. The thing is: this collection is very much a collection. Very few of the looks will work as is. But overall it is a very wearable collection, with elegant lengths, stunning fabrics, bold colors that have not been used much recently, stunning little details that make every piece sing. The bags and shoes are perfection. The clothes are cut for a woman, not for a hanger (and the models actually have figures, which is a refreshing change), and actually fit the models. Everything is maxed, sure. I can't imagine anyone wearing the whole look head-to-toe. But each piece is perfection. I'd wear all of it (ha!), and I love all of it, and I frankly don't see the point of posting about any other collection.

Here are some of my favorite looks:

Terra cotta--a fresh, new, flattering and warm neutral.

I missed the applique on this the first time I looked. Also: Sleeves! Prints!

I love the contrast in directions of all the stripes in this, and the slight blousing of the top.

Red embroidery. Need I say more?

When have we last seen a skirt that length? I love it.

What you can't tell is this is a swimsuit (which sounds better than a romper). The coat over a swimsuit is a 50's style better left to the Riviera. But this coat over a white blouse and linen skirt. Yes please.

So elegant, inventive, classic, but fresh.

Yes. That's a cotton brocade coat and matching dress. So mod!

And the accessories! Scarves, hats, shoes, bags, and those awesome earrings. Scaled down (as they would be in shops)--I'd totally wear them!

(the most perfect straw tote in the history of all straw totes.)

1 comment:

  1. Mags,

    This post is delicious. I definitely feel like we're on the verge of something really great in fashion. The era of internet/sartorialist/hipsterism has changed the world of fashion, and I think for the better. Finally a breath of fresh air, color, texture, and classicism has retuned to fashion. The skirt is back! No, the REAL skirt! Not a mini, not a drop waist, but a real waisted, proper length, tailored skirt! Feminine is back! the 20's are back, evening dresses are back, texture is back, hell, even VELVET is back! I feel like the age of antiestablishment and pro-nerd, has allowed for fashion to finally grow and move, and most of all put the power of fashion back into our hands.

    For a while there we were biting our nails looking at the same black shapeless ensemble, and just rolling our eyes. No creativity! One time Alli and I walked into CK and both had the same strange feeling. I turn to her: "Haven't we seen this all before?" And we had! Last year at the local outdoor market in Pontremoli, Italy! SO tacky, CK, so tacky!

    A trip to Rome led me down the corso, near Santa Trinita', this is where all the big names sport their wares. To be honest, the major fashion houses didn't move me a whole lot, but some smaller ones, had stunning displays of 1930's evening gowns, and another antique/jewelry shop had a whole display featuring jewelry from different eras. (I will definitely send you the link once I get all the photos developed and uploaded!)

    Sorry to leave such a long comment, but this issue has been steeping in my mind for a while now. Thank you for being a real woman!