Friday Meals (Week 4): A Cheese Platter

There are many guides online concerned with how to make an excellent cheese plate, but I have found most of them to be somewhat lacking. So I thought, this Friday as part of my Friday Meals series, I'd give you tips on how to make a good cheese plate.

I have two rules for a cheese plate:
1) contrast flavors and textures (soft and hard, sweet and salty)
2) simpler is always better
(And one more general rule: don't wrap cheese in plastic. Wrap it in paper, or paper and foil.)

First, (as if it wasn't obvious) start with the cheese.

If this is going to be a first course then you can highlight one cheese, or do a small variety. For a small party, I recommend three cheeses of varying textures, for a larger party, I'd say you want no more than 5 cheeses. If you're going to have a meal out of it (like a picnic) get at least three cheeses.

I usually pick one soft, one hard and then one "wild card" cheese. I try to always include one that is either made from goat's milk or sheep's milk, in case someone has allergies to cow's milk or lactose. My go-to selection is:

Hard: Aged Gouda, a fine Parmesan, in CA a dry jack, or perhaps Piave Vecchio, a one year aged cheese that is like Parmesan, but a little more oily. Which is good. Pecorino is my favorite for grating, but I think it is too salty for a cheese plate. If you have a good set of cheese knives, you can leave the block as is on the plate. If you don't, then cut off the rind, and chop up the cheese into tiny cubes, or thicker slices. This helps preserve the texture of nuttiness (the "bite") in aged cheeses.

Soft or gooey: This would be a good place for your blue cheese, if you like blue cheese. (I don't. 'Tis my one gastronomical failing!) I usually include a good quality chevre, or a triple cream brie here. Or both... I especially like anything from Cypress Grove, their Humboldt Fogis both gooey and made of goat's milk. My favorite bries are Fromage D'Affinois and Saint Andre, or the Soignon goat's brie. I only include brie in a larger cheese platter, however, as many people get migraines from the tannins in brie cheese.

Wild Card: This is another good place for blue cheese (your other cheeses being something hard and something gooey/soft). I usually try to pick something rather extra-ordinary for this one, or a medium hard cheese, which can be easily sliced. Favorites include Manchego, Wensleydale (a British Cheddar) and the old standby Port Salut. In the fall I like a super sharp Vermont Cheddar. As for extra ordinary choices: this could be anything from marinated mozzarella or feta, to a fine blue cheese, to some sort of cheese spread (salmon and cream cheese, home made ricotta with chives). I also really like washed rind cheeses, and things like Drunken Goat. Or, and I think this is the best option, pick something being showcased in your local cheese shop.

Now for the accents. Nuts, olives, antipasti, fruits and breads all go wonderfully with cheeses, but you don't want to go over the top. You only need one or two accents to make a really good cheese platter. But three is the magic number--and NEVER do more than five. See in the picture above? Three cheeses, five accents: Jam, Honey, Cranberry, Pistachio, and Salt.

The point of the accents is balance. I once got food poisoning at a french restaurant which served 6 separate rich cheeses, with nothing but a few almonds. Not good. You want the accents to balance the richness of the different cheeses, and to unite them.

I tend to pick my accents based on either season or region. If you're serving Spanish cheeses like Manchego, then include membrillo (quince paste), a fig loaf, and marcona almonds. If you're serving a cheese plate in the fall, I like creamy but sharp cheeses like chevre matched with a rustic loaf, sliced pears and apples, an assortment of nuts, some honey, and roasted garlic. For a summer Italian platter, I'd match Piave Vecchio and fresh mozzarella with roasted tomatoes, cippolini onions, and preserved lemons, and maybe an fresh pesto.

Try to accent the flavors of the cheeses:

Crackers and Breads: I recommend limiting yourself to one, at most two, kinds of bread or cracker. Crusty french bread is the standby. The Fine Cheese Company has a whole assortment of crackers that suit different cheese types. My favorite crackers have got to be Leslie Stowe Raincoast Crisps, available at Whole Foods. They go with everything.* I rarely by the flavorless water crackers or (cardboard-like) wheat crackers.

Nuts: Most nuts go well with cheese, but I tend to like Pistachios best. Almonds are very good as well. Pecans and walnuts, especially if seasoned, are excellent. Stronger flavored and fattier nuts like peanuts only work with a few cheeses.

Sweet Accents: There should always be fruit in a cheese platter. Fruit and cheese are the simplest and most natural compliments. In season, I like using fresh fruits--figs, plums, oranges, melons, peaches, and cherries. In the winter I like using jellies and pastes. Membrillo is a Delicious paste made of Quince. For jams and jellies, I recommend more savory flavours (herbs, etc.), or whole fruit jams that have little added sugar (No Smuckers!). Lemon Bird makes really interesting ones. But mine are better...

Honey: Honey is a natural accompaniment to cheese and nuts. I always buy local honey--it is better for you (really!). I also like to get either Whipped Honey, or honey comb.

Olives and Pickles: Olives are a new love for me. I couldn't tell you what kind to get because I am only now starting to learn about them. But I tend to like the big green fruity ones. And I like them with the pits. Cornichons are tiny french pickles, and have a more delicate flavour. Balsamic Cippolini onions, roasted red peppers, and pepperoncini are all classic accoutrement's for an Italian anti-pasti display. But I like to go for the simple mixed bowl of olives best of all. Their tart bite matches the smooth creaminess of most cheeses.

Meats and Fish: This is largely picked by personal preference. I rarely include meats in a cheese platter, only sometimes do I include smoked trout or salmon. But I do think it is a valuable addition. Be sure to get the best quality meats you can afford. A few slices of very fine prosciutto go a LONG WAY, so go ahead and buy the imported stuff. My only exceptions to the no-meat rule are really good hard salami, or pancetta. The crispiness of pancetta (Italian spiced bacon) is just wonderful with cheeses.

Spreads and Tapenades: Tapenades (olive based spreads), bean salads, bruschetta and salsa, hummus, and roasted garlic are all good additions to a cheese spread. I'd never offer more than one of these on any given night--and usually with just one other cheese. They compete with many cheeses, so they should be considered the real star of a dish. I don't make my own (except for roasted garlic), because you can get such good quality versions in stores these days. And they keep forever, so buy some and stock up the fridge

Mustard: I can't believe there was a time when I didn't like Mustard. But there was. I love them now, and they are the perfect pungent accompaniment for an English cheese spread, with cheddar, some ham, and some toasted breads. Also good with Gouda or Swiss Cheese

Salt and Pepper and herbs: It's always good to have some salt and pepper on hand, or some fresh herbs from the garden. In the photo above (from thanksgiving) I had a huge chunk of rock salt. Herbs are almost more of a garnish, but they can add a lightness to an otherwise heavy spread.

Finally, the display. There is nothing better or more rustic that having one large beautiful cutting board spread with all the ingredients. I like having them all in one place, that way I know I don't go overboard. Marble slabs are classic, and keep cheese slightly chilled. And you can't go wrong with a beautiful ceramic platter. Some much of the success of a good cheese platter is the display--how the different elements catch the eye. But the best reason for putting it all on one plate is: that way you know when you've got too much.

Obviously, I could write a book on this. But I hope it was helpful, and that you enjoyed all this. If you're not too worn out, here are some additional resources:
--The Kitchn's All American Cheese Plate Guide and How To Eat Cheese, courtesy of their fine column, The Cheese Monger.
--As usual with matters of food, you can't beat the coverage in the Chronicle.
--Other guidelines can be found at Barefoot Contessa, Artisinal Cheeses.

*I can't tell you how much I love these crackers. If you are having a small dinner party and just making a small cheese plate, then get some really good chevre, these crackers, and a pint of olives. You really need nothing more.